Ask Missy ZNE!

Dont get bored with board!

Please help. I've been working on fiberboard with acrylics and am getting peeling. I am gesso'ing my board, letting it dry and then applying various layers of acrylic paint. The paint is peeling. I've never had this happen before and I don't know what to do. Varnish? I'm afraid that regardless of what I finish with it will still peel. It is like the paint is still sticky/tacky even after several weeks.

I live in the south bay area so it isn't particularly humid and it hasn't been raining. I have air conditioning.

                - Amy Steinburg

ZNE Member Cathy Minerva says:

I sometimes paint on chipboard also. Is it the matte type board or a slick finish? It could be the board not your process. The more matte board has an open fiber that absorbs paint, the slick one is more sealed and repels the paint. Does your gesso peel off also? That would tell you if it is the board.
Hope this helps a little bit. Hugs, Cath

And ZNE Member Anne Butler says:

You can try sanding the board so it has a tooth for the medium to stick to.

What a Beauty!

I lovethis piece by Patti Koosed, can you tell me how she created this lovely piece?

 

Patti shares these techniques with us:

This is an original handmade 9 x 12 mixed media collage.

The background is a Vintage American Beauty Greeting Card Box lid.
Do any of you remember American Beauty Greeting Cards?

I added an image of a Young Victorian Women printed on photo paper.

Embellished it with blackberry leaves from my yard and black stick on jewel swirls by "Say It In Crystal" purchased from Walmart.

I then printed a Victorian Love Letter on a transparent sheet and layed that over the collage and then I printed it on photo paper.

This piece is available in my Etsy Shop. That link is on my blog page www.pchickki.etsy.com.
The name of my Etsy shop is Patricia Creations.

Hope you enjoy this collage. It was fun to do.

Terrific Transfers

I love this beautiful piece of art by ZNE Member Patti Koosed:

Can you tell me how she achieves that image transfer?

Patti shares the following with us:

I learned to do this from Cindy at Layers Upon Layers.

I printed out the background . Use any background you desire.
I took the print out of the background and layed it on my table.

Then I chose the image. In this case it is the faces of the little children.

When you do a transfer the image will be reversed so you may want to take that in to consideration when doing a collage.

I found a picture I wanted to use, in this case the Little Faces of children and I printed that on regular paper.

As soon as you pull the image you are transfering off of your printer, you need to paint the area on your background page with GOLDEN MEDIUM, covering the area that will be accepting the transfer.

I then immediately turned the Little Faces image face down and laid it on the background on top of the modge podge glue.

I immediately used a popcicle stick to rub the image onto the Polymer Golden Medium.

The time to wait before removing the paper varies and practice is needed for the first few times. I find that it only takes about 1 minute maybe not even that long.

I then very slowly started at one corner of the image being transfered and peeled it back. This image of the little faces is what came out.

The wonderful thing about transferring images is that you can get the entire image (which I have not been able to do yet) or you get pieces of the image and in this case, I got pieces.

The paper I used to print out the image of the little faces already had an image of a butterfly on it and it was transferred also which turned out okay.

I embellished with the image of the girl with a book from a magazine and also the fan just above the little faces. I then sealed it with Golden Medium.

Just play with it and see how it feels. This was my first so I am no expert but I am happy to share how I did this one and I am looking foward to doing many more.

Hope this helped .

I was taught to use photo paper but I found that regular paper on both the background print out and the image transfer works better for me.

Light it up!

I like to take photos of my artwork, but they never seem to have the correct lighting, what can I do?

- Lightless in Seattle

Bernice Wagnitz was kind enough to share her wonderful technique for creating your own lighbox, for photography:

How to Construct a Homemade Lightbox
Supplies :
1- Foamcore board or plywood - foam core is easy to work with, but if you like working with wood or know someone who does, the wood is sturdier.
2- Plexiglass sheet the size you want your box - these are sold in hardware stores in the lighting section for fluorescent light covers.
3-Light (the florescent lights they sell for under the cabinet with plug or battery operated). Get 2 lights if making a large lightbox

Construction
Cut foamcore or plywood 6 inches deep and the length of each side of the plexiglass. And then make cuts into boards half the depth of the boards a small distance from the end of each board.. Also make a small notch in one board for the cord of the light to fit through if using the sort of light with a plug. Make 2 notches if using 2 lights.
Now fit the boards together like Lincoln logs and place the light inside and turn on, making sure the cord goes through the notch made for it. Then place the plexiglass on top of the box.
The best part about this design is that it can be taken apart and stored until needed, making it perfect for the small art studio.

Just make sure that you've had your tetanus shots!

I am interested in using rusty embellishments and backgrounds in my art, but I worried that if I wander the local junkyard searching for these things, I'll end up needing a tetanus shot!  Can you tell me if you have found any good rust techniques?

Bernice Wagnits has a wonderful suggestion:

when I first started to do my primitive dolls RUST was the big thing. Anything rusted sold good so I deceded to experiment with different rust combinations. I tried the hydrogen peroxide and salt which worked fine on rusting safety pins. I did the bleach vinigar salt and dirt mixture which took a long time but it did manage to rust the bottom out of a coffee can.

Then I found Sophisticated finishes at the craft store, they have finishes for Iron, copper, and many others. It's a two part process, first you paint the surface, I've used it on tags, paper, cloth, metal, wood, anything I wanted to look rusted, with a metallic surfacer let that dry completely than depending on what affect you want you choose the rust antiquing solution or the copper solution and paint that on and let it dry. Sometimes you may have to go over spots you missed but it all blends in good. It's a bit expensive but it goes a long long way.


I did a copper roof for one of my witch clock cabinets then used the rust on it and it came out great. The only thing is that if you use this on metal it will continue to rust so you have to spray a sealer on the metal otherwise your metal piece will continue to rust away through the years. On other surfaces you don't have to worry about it. I used it many times on wood frames, it gave them a real old look. You could do an entire cover of a book with it. I don't know about using it on thin book pages because on the tags I used it on they became stiff but looked good.

Thanks Bernice! 

 

Painting and Peeling

 

Please help. I've been working on fiberboard with acrylics and am getting peeling. I am gesso'ing my board, letting it dry and then applying various layers of acrylic paint. The paint is peeling. I've never had this happen before and I don't know what to do. Varnish? I'm afraid that regardless of what I finish with it will still peel. It is like the paint is still sticky/tacky even after several weeks.

I live in the south bay area so it isn't particularly humid and it hasn't been raining. I have air conditioning.

Thoughts?

- Amy Steinberg

Bernice Wagnitz has this to share:

Amy if you think it's the humidity that's causing it try a blow dryer to dry the paint, one layer at a time if possible. Could you perhaps have some old paint? Your right about what ever you put on top of it, it will still peel if the bottom layer is still wet.
I've never had any problems with it peeling and I tried to find something on the internet about it but came up empty.
Hopefully someone will come along with a suggestion that helps.

And Cathy Minerva added this:

I sometimes paint on chipboard also. Is it the matte type board or a slick finish? It could be the board not your process. The more matte board has an open fiber that absorbs paint, the slick one is more sealed and repels the paint. Does your gesso peel off also? That would tell you if it is the board.
Hope this helps a little bit.

And Amy Butler also added:

You can try sanding the matboard so it has a tooth for the medium to stick to.

So, there are lots of suggestions and if any of you are having similar problems, here are several options to try, to rectify the situation.

Happy Painting!

 

Play with some clay today!

 

I love making ATCs with cardstock backgrounds, but I'd like to expand my repoitoire of backgrounds.  What else can we make ATCs from?

 

Linda Donnelly shares this fabulous technique, using clay!

This is my best and most unusual aceo mixed collage card. I made the card itself from DAS an air hardening modelling clay in white. I rolled it out in the correct aceo card shape 3.5" x 2.5". Then I added a 3D circular mount for the picture of the renaissance woman. I let the card air dry for 2 days. Then I painted the background with a mixture of different Ranger Adirondak paints in greens and golds. The indented sides were painted with green paint. Then I glued a utee encased image of a beautiful woman to the circular mount and added an epoxy word "Beauty " to the side. There is an epoxy faded pink rose in the upper left side. Finally, I sprayed the entire card with a high gloss spray and let it dry. It dried with one side slightly tilted up which adds to its artist flair.

Nothing to blow your nose at!

I've heard that there is way to use bandanas to create cool art tags.  Can you tell me how?

Riley K provides these tips for us:

This is called the Bandana or Staz-On technique. Make sure you use very bright colors in the background for this technique. The first thing you want to do is to color the background using very bright colors. I have used staz-on colors, adirondack dye pads, and alcohol inks for my backgrounds. After you get the colors the way you like them, start stamping images on the colored background. After everything is dried, start highlighting different areas with a white gel pen. Try to draw the white lines next to the black lines as this will help the image pop. I used the Inkssentials and Sharpie pens but there are others out there.

As you can see, finely detailed stamps may not work so well with this technique but you can always add your own doodles on the stamped background. Have fun. Thanks.

Don't be destressed! Distress!

I need a primer on distressing.  Can you cover all the bases for me?

Bernice Wagnitz shares the following:

I like to use water when I am distressing. I think it gives the papers more of a weathered texture, so here's how I start. Working on any type of paper (manila, cardstock, or text weight), crumple the paper up - always press in the center of any heavyweight cardstock or manila stock - this will break the surface tension of the paper and allow you to crumple up the paper easier without tearing it. Next rub the Distress pads over the surface - you can work with several different colors or just one - WALNUT STAIN IS IDEAL FOR THIS. Then spray the inked surface with water (you will immediately notice the ink "travels" outward when water is applied as these inks are designed to react with water). Heat the surface to dry - and here's why... Although you don't have to Heat Set these inks for any reason, I like to dry the water using either my Heat-It Craft Tool or an iron. This will allow for more tone control and keep areas dark and others light. Ironing the paper will also give you a much smoother surface to stamp on without compromising the aged finish. *If you allow the surface to air-dry most of your color will end up on the edges only because the paper will bend and buckle when wet, forcing the ink and water to the edges. Notice that these Distress Inks retain their color value even when wet and dried. Other brown dyes will break down in color (sometimes leaving a pink and green hue).

DOUBLE DISTRESS TAGS: Crumple tag and apply 2 colors (one new tone and one original tone) of Distress Inks directly from the pads to each crumpled tag. Spray with water and dry.
"WRINKLE-FREE" DISTRESSING
To create the look of aged papers, from times gone by, without all the lines and wrinkles - give this a try. Working on your non-stick Craft Sheet, begin by directly applying various colors of Distress Ink Pads to the surface of the Craft Sheet. A couple of swipes of a color or two will do the trick (you
might also try using an original color of Distress Ink along with a new one!).
Get out your Distress Re-Inkers for this next step as you want to add a bit of intense color for the ultimate vintage look. I like using Walnut Stain or Vintage Photo for this, so remove the glass dropper from the bottle and drag it across the inked Craft Sheet - do not squeeze any drops of ink as it will take over everything! Next mist the Craft Sheet with water to allow the inks to begin mixing and blending - usually 3-4 sprays is plenty. Then take your paper or tag and place in directly on the inked Craft Sheet and lift it off. If you have any un-inked areas simply place that area of the paper on any left over inks on the sheet. Finally dry your paper or tag using an iron or a Heat-It Craft Tool ( if you allow your papers to air dry they will curl and force most of the ink to the edges so I prefer to heat them to dry.). To finish your attic-fresh look, ink the edges with Distress Inks using a piece of Cut n' Dry Foam.

FOR STAMPING: Once again the special formulation on these Distress Inks provides a versatile finish on papers yet still allow for "normal" stamping applications. I like to stamp on uncoated (matte) papers and immediately rub the image with a cloth - this will soften or shadow your image WITHOUT smudging any detail - VINTAGE PHOTO, WALNUT STAIN, TEA DYE, BLACK SOOT - wonderful for this one! Another surface is glossy cardstock - keep in mind this is a different type of dye ink so when you stamp on glossy, certain areas of your image will "bead" up, once again providing a Distressed look without you doing a thing (this is probably one of my most favorite looks) - some areas of the image appear "pitted". Brayering on glossy cardstock is also wonderful because you can still manipulate the inks with different tools, brushes, your fingers, whatever. Even after the ink is applied you can achieve amazing texture and color shading.

ON PHOTOS: FINALLY an ink formulated for photos! Whether you're a scrapbooker or not you can use all types of photos (vintage or new ones) on your cards and pages. The Distress Inks work on all types of photos - inkjet, laser, toner copies, regular photos (matte or glossy) and even color photos! Start by using the lightest colors ANTIQUE LINEN or OLD PAPER with either a brayer or DTP (direct to photo). Cover the photo in the lighter colors, blend the colors with
a small piece of Cut n' Dry Foam after you apply the inks - these inks stay
wet long enough for you to blend out any lines or marks other ink pads leave on
photos. Next age the edges with VINTAGE PHOTO or WALNUT STAIN by applying the pad directly to the edges - soften and mix the tones with a small piece of Ranger Cut ‘n Dry Foam. Of course to complete the aged process lightly sand - YES SAND - the photo with medium grit sand paper. Don't go over anyone's face, but just make a few scratches here and there.

PHOTO TINTING:
Distress Inks acid-free, easy to blend formula makes them your best choice
for photo tinting. Make a black and white copy of your favorite photo onto
Ranger Gloss Paper. Select areas of your photo to colorize. Pick up ink directly from the Distress Pads with Cut n' Dry Nibs and color. It's that easy! Cut n' Dry Nibs provide the control you need to place colors exactly where you want them. Distress Photo Edging Make any photo look antique. Cut a small square of Cut
n’ Dry Foam. Ink the foam on one of the Distress pads. Rub the inked foam around the edges of the photo for anaged effect.

THE RE-INKERS: The Distress re-inkers are so versatile and fun, especially the bottles they're in! These vintage looking glass dropper vials are perfect for aging a "batch" of tags, fibers, linens or whatever, in baths of Distress Inks & water. You can also create your own palette on your craft sheet using the reinkers and hand tint any black and white photo color by color (very fun thing to do). I also like using the resist ink or Perfect Medium and the reinkers to create amazing stained backgrounds on papers.

Rock and Roll!

I've heard you can use a brayer to create different textured backgrounds for your artwork.  How do you do this?

Bernice Wagnitz shares the following:

 Wrap your brayer with texture! Cover rollers with double sided tape, adhere lace, bubble wrap, etc., roll into ink or paint, and roll it over your fabric! Carve any design on Replacement Rollers and create a variety of textured rollers. Available in small, medium and large sizes.

The Boss of Embossing!

Can you let me know the best way to distress embossing powders?

Bernice Wagnitz shares these tips:

Tips:
1. Shake jar before each use to evenly distribute the release crystals.

2. As with regular embossing, use a well-inked stamp to apply ink to your surface, sprinkle Distress Powder onto image and tap off excess. Emboss using Ranger’s Inkssentials Heat it Craft Tool or similar Heat Tool until powder turns a slightly deeper tone – unlike traditional powders these will not turn shiny.

3. For best results it is recommended you emboss with Distress Ink inks (yes, the dye inks!), Distress Embossing Ink or the Inkssentials Two Tone Big and Bossy Pad (Clear and Black Embossing Ink together in one pad). Note: If embossing with watermark or pigment inks, you will still get the matte, textured look and feel from the Distress Powders, but you will have less or no rub off.

4. To distress, emboss image and allow to cool for a few seconds. Lightly rub embossed image with your finger or Cut n’ Dry Foam to remove the special release crystals. Some colors release more than others, so don’t worry if some rub off more or less …it’s part of the “aged” look.

5. Because some Distress Embossing Powder colors only change slightly when heated, here is tip for knowing when the embossing is complete: if the feel of the embossing when cooled is like sandpaper, it has been heated enough. If it is too loose like sand on the beach, heat it some more.
6. Some Distress Powders look better on light or dark papers. Practice with all of the colors and you’ll get a better feel on what to expect when embossed.

7. For a textured, aged effect, take a piece of Cut n’ Dry Foam with Distress or Clear Embossing Ink on it, accent areas of paper, wood or paper mache and emboss with Distress Powders.

8. To create a wonderful combination of color and texture, crumple a tag and hit high points with Clear Embossing Ink using Cut n’ Dry Foam. Emboss with Distress Powders and allow to cool. Ink another piece of Cut n’ Dry Foam with coordinating color of Distress Ink and rub over embossed tag. This will remove the release crystals as well as ink the background of the tag – amazing results!

How does Linda B. create such amazing backgrounds for her artwork?

Bernice Wagnitz asked Linda this exact question, and this was the answer was kind enough to share:

Here is my red piece...a self portrait of sorts... I began with an image of me...using chalks to add a little colour, apply with cotton tips or chalking puffs.

A white gel pen and black felt tip were used to add swirls and other free hand doodling (have fun with it!).

Once you are satisfied with the look adhere the image to the canvas and spread texture paste around image (I used Jo Sonja's black), with a palette knife, the density is personal choice. draw swirls in the paste with the palette knife/awl or other tool.

You can allow it to dry on it's own or for added texture use your heat gun...it will bubble and blister and if it burns a little then that is ok because you will be painting over it :)

Once it is atleast touch dry paint with acrylic paints and a damp sea sponge, heat again for more texture and to dry off the paint.

Smear with a little Rub n' Buff or Treasure Gold, this will highlight the texture nicely.
To finish your piece off use some stamped words, doodling and perhaps a little Kindy Glitz to make it sparkle.

Thanks for sharing that Linda!

How do I crochet with beads and wire?

Ihave seen some really beautiful crochet work that incorporates beads and wire.  How is this done?

Bernice Wagnitz offers a wonderful set of links to help guide you through this process:

Here is the link for the tutorial on this unusual jewelry method of crocheting with wire and beads.
http://www.seafore.com/wire/wire.html
Hugs
Bernie

Getting rid of those stubborn bubbles!

I have several drawings that I want to mount to mat boards. But it seems I always get wrinkles, bubbles or air pockets. Also, I have some waxed pieces I want to glue to mat board.
Is there a tried and true method to this or a special glue I need to be using. I have tried glue sticks, WeldBond and plain old Elmer's. Sometimes it works and others I get a mess!
Do the spray adhesives work?
Thanks!
Cath

Two helpful souls have provided answers for your very good question - here they are:

This is a tricky thing no matter which way you do it. Here's what I do: using ModPodge, I brush some of it on the matboard thick enough to stay wet but not so thick that it will squish out. Then I quickly coat the entire back of the art piece making sure to get the edges glued. Have a paper towel handy if you get glue on your fingers (or wipe them on your pants the way I usually do) and place the two wet surfaces together. Because both surfaces have glue, you will be able to move the surfaces around somewhat but try to be accurate the first time. Then lay a piece of wax paper over the image and use a brayer going from the center outward to the edges in all directions. Wipe off any excess glue. Then place the piece in between two clean pieces of wax paper and weight it down with a very heavy book. This seems to help the adhesion. Leave it for an hour or more then take it out and let it dry.
I think the brayer is the most important part to get the air bubbles out and smush the two surfaces together.
-Lynne

and

Good advise Lynne, the other thing that I find that works well is the spray adhesive, knowing where you live Cath you would want to go outside to spray but I've had great success with it and never have had any bubbles or wrinkles. You do have to be careful how you lay your piece out, you will want to be accurate the first time because the spray glue won't allow you to move it much if at all once contact is made.
I would do some trials using the same art paper and board that you will be using and see how it all works.
Good luck and let us know how it turned out.
Hugs
Bernie

Where do I go for the best arts and craft fair in Northern California?

Easy!

Thanks Barbe, you put it best and I am copying your text and extending the same offer!

I'll be vending at Art, Paperie & Pleasantries next weekend. It's being held at the Alameda County Fair Building in Pleasnaton, CA. You can find more details here.

There will be lots of vendors, live music, book signings, make & take classes, coloring table for the kiddies and lots of pretties to buy!  Chel will be taking lots of new art, and The ZNE Store will have TONS of vintage and new art supplies, dolls, paperie, vintage doll clothes and miniatures, and more!

All the sparkly goodness happens Saturday May 2 & Sunday May 3, 2009 Noon - 5:00 p.m. both days, $3 admission, but get the dollar off coupon on the website.

Mention reading my blog and get 10% at my booth as well! Hope to see you there.

Barbe Saint John is doing the same, check out her blog - here:

http://tinyurl.com/dax38h

Hooray!

ZNE CONVENZIONE CLASS REGISTRATION IS NOW OPEN!  GO CHECK IT OUT!  We have full five day registration packages, one day registration packages, dozens of classes to choose from with instructors flying in from all over the country, incredible evening programs and wonderful field trip add-ons!

Don't miss out!  Classes are filling up NOW!

http://www.ZNEcon.com

 

Coming in January 2009!

New posts, new questions, new answers, an expanded MISSY ZNE Blog!

 

  

Check back in early 2009 for a wonderful start to the New Year, and wonderful new blog! 

PREVIEW AUCTION ITEMS BY CLICKING ON THE WINDOW, BELOW

Auction Begins at 12:00 a.m. October 1, 2007

Here in the Land of ZNE, we are running around like crazy getting ready for the Hope Sees a Star benefit auction which will go live at 12:00 a.m. CA time, on October 1.

Our blogs may be quiet until then, but rest assured, we are here, working hard!

PLEASE HELP US PROMOTE THE AUCTION - AND COME VISIT AND BID on OCTOBER 1!

www.HopeSeesAStar.com

(PS - Thanks Karen at LunaGirl for the fun image.  I didn't even know anyone was taking my picture that day.  Tee hee!)

Hope Sees a Star?

HOW LONG UNTIL THE HOPE SEES A STAR AUCTION TAKES PLACE?

- Someone who cares

Smile! You're on candid Screen Shot Camera!

I've noticed cool 'screen shots' on the ZNE network pages, of great web pages of note. I would love to learn how to make screen shots, so when I blog about a fellow blogger or cool site, I can show the screen like that?

- Tracy

Ah yes.  There are times, especially if you have a blog or website - when you would like to save a special "screen shot" of a webpage that you find online.  Perhaps to toot your own horn, or that of someone else.  ("Look!  I am on the homepage of the Forbes 500 online magazine, now that I have become a billionaire!"  (What?  Missy ZNE is patiently waiting for the day when she can make this announcement!  It could happen!)

Here is how I save the screen shot, using a PC.  (You Mac users will have to look it up via the Apple website.  Missy ZNE is not Mac-literate.  Sigh.)

When you are on the webpage you want to save, look for the key on the top right of your keyboard marked "Print Screen."  Press the key.  Go ahead.  Be brave.  Now, open up your photo editing software (whatever it may be) and then open a "new" or blank document.  Then, use the paste function.  (Either via the editing menu, or ctrl v).  Your screen shot should show up!

You can then crop it if you wish, or just save it as is.  It should be saved as a jpg, so you can then insert or upload the image online or anywhere else, just as you would any other jpg image.

Here is an example of what happens when I follow the steps above, right here:

Woo hoo!  It worked.

Now you know how to do it too.  Have fun saving your screen shots!

Good Solid Coverage!

Hi!

What is the best glaze/medium to coat an ATC or other collage piece with that gives good solid coverage without a lot of high shine to it?

Thanks!

Lesley

This is a common question for mixed media artists.  There is no one answer, and in fact what product/s you use to finish and seal your artwork depends on your own personal preferences.  You can review more on this topic, in the post you'll find by clicking here.

In terms of your specific question, in order to avoid a glossy shine, you will want to look for a finishing product that says that it is "matte."  Missy ZNE suggests you try a matte fixative spray, for a quick even and non-shiny finish.

Hi!

What is the best glaze/medium to coat an ATC or other collage piece with that gives good solid coverage without a lot of high shine to it?

Thanks!

Lesley

This is a common question for mixed media artists.  There is no one answer, and in fact what product/s you use to finish and seal your artwork depends on your own personal preferences.  You can review more on this topic, in the post you'll find by clicking here.

In terms of your specific question, in order to avoid a glossy shine, you will want to look for a finishing product that says that it is "matte."  Missy ZNE suggests you try a matte fixative spray, for a quick even and non-shiny finish.

JOIN US!

HUNDREDS OF ARTISTS ~ ALL CONNECTED 

The address for the new ZNE Discussion boards is:

www.ZNEart.net

IF YOU ARE A ZNE MEMBER ~ (or want to be one) ~ PLEASE JOIN The Network.

Here are just a few unsolicited quotes that have been posted by members who have signed up for our new discussion boards, so far:

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Since opening the doors 5 days ago, over 200 members have come in, and the reviews are in!

NOW WE NEED THE REST OF YOU!

So if you are a ZNE member and you have not yet signed up for The ZNE Network - the only question is:

WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR?

Stop by and come in or request an invite (free for all members!) HERE:

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Linky Loos...

Hi Missy,

I am a new member and excited to be! Please tell me how to use your logo on the bottom of my listings in ebay...And where do I find my links on your website? Thanks for any help you can give me.

Sue

We are so glad you asked!  We love it when our members show their ZNE pride, and we are equally proud to promote them!

You can refer to an earlier question I answered about use of the ZNE Logo by clicking here, for information about using our logo.

If you would like us to link back to you, we would love to do so!  ZNE Supporting Members can submit their personal blog and non-sales websites, here:

http://www.zneart.com/links/submit.php

You can also submit your blog links, here:

http://www.zne-store.citymax.com/BLOGZ.html

If you have an etsy store, you may submit your store link, here:

http://www.zne-store.citymax.com/page/page/4496316.htm

If you have links to your art related slide shows, pod casts, or videos - you can submit them to Teatro ZNE, our multimedia library, here:

http://www.zne-store.citymax.com/page/page/4725687.htm

And if you would like to be included in our style try style specific links, you can submit them, on the bottom of the page,  here:

http://www.zne-store.citymax.com/page/page/4236840.htm

If you are vendor member, you can also submit your sales related links, here:

http://www.zneart.com/links/submit.php

Hope this info helps.  :D

Hi Missy,

I am a new member and excited to be! Please tell me how to use your logo on the bottom of my listings in ebay...And where do I find my links on your website? Thanks for any help you can give me.

Sue

We are so glad you asked!  We love it when our members show their ZNE pride, and we are equally proud to promote them!

You can refer to an earlier question I answered about use of the ZNE Logo by clicking here, for information about using our logo.

If you would like us to link back to you, we would love to do so!  ZNE Supporting Members can submit their personal blog and non-sales websites, here:

http://www.zneart.com/links/submit.php

You can also submit your blog links, here:

http://www.zne-store.citymax.com/BLOGZ.html

If you have an etsy store, you may submit your store link, here:

http://www.zne-store.citymax.com/page/page/4496316.htm

If you have links to your art related slide shows, pod casts, or videos - you can submit them to Teatro ZNE, our multimedia library, here:

http://www.zne-store.citymax.com/page/page/4725687.htm

And if you would like to be included in our style try style specific links, you can submit them, on the bottom of the page,  here:

http://www.zne-store.citymax.com/page/page/4236840.htm

If you are vendor member, you can also submit your sales related links, here:

http://www.zneart.com/links/submit.php

Hope this info helps.  :D

Dora the Copyright Explorer

I am trying to not tread on any toes regarding copyright issues but I do have a question.  If I make an item say a small wooden trunk and I use "licensed" fabric such as Dora, which I purchased outright, am I infringing on the Dora copyright with Nickelodeon?

These laws are so confusing and I certainly dont want to "steal" anything!!!

Love this site and hope to have some items finished soon for your contests, web postings, etc.

Thanks for a neat place for us altered artists to visit and learn.

Best Regards,

Cathy M.

 

The answer to your question lies in your intent for use behind the item you make.  Companies purchase a license to use Dora's image to create fabric, so that you can buy it from them to do crafty things.  It is obvious and understood that the end user will make something, be it clothing, a covered trunk, or anything else, with the fabric.

The potential for infringement occurs not when you use it to make something for personal use or which you plan to give as a gift, but when you either sell or publicly display your creations, and call them your own.

Some distributers of crafty items provide an angel policy of some kind, allowing crafters to sell a certain number of items using their licensed product line, without penalty.  The best way to find out is to ask the manufacturer.  If you are unsure of who manufactured your fabric, ask the staff of the fabric store where you purchased the fabric.

Good luck, and have fun!

I am trying to not tread on any toes regarding copyright issues but I do have a question.  If I make an item say a small wooden trunk and I use "licensed" fabric such as Dora, which I purchased outright, am I infringing on the Dora copyright with Nickelodeon?

These laws are so confusing and I certainly dont want to "steal" anything!!!

Love this site and hope to have some items finished soon for your contests, web postings, etc.

Thanks for a neat place for us altered artists to visit and learn.

Best Regards,

Cathy M.

 

The answer to your question lies in your intent for use behind the item you make.  Companies purchase a license to use Dora's image to create fabric, so that you can buy it from them to do crafty things.  It is obvious and understood that the end user will make something, be it clothing, a covered trunk, or anything else, with the fabric.

The potential for infringement occurs not when you use it to make something for personal use or which you plan to give as a gift, but when you either sell or publicly display your creations, and call them your own.

Some distributers of crafty items provide an angel policy of some kind, allowing crafters to sell a certain number of items using their licensed product line, without penalty.  The best way to find out is to ask the manufacturer.  If you are unsure of who manufactured your fabric, ask the staff of the fabric store where you purchased the fabric.

Good luck, and have fun!

Scan, Bam, Thank ya Mam!

I am having a hard time copying/scanning my originals to keep a record of them and to have quality images to use as possible EDITIONS/Prints in the future - any suggestions/tips and insight woukd be GREATLY appreciated!!

Kind Regards,

Heidi

I am assuming you are using a standard flatbed scanner, and that you are scanning flat art pieces.  (If your pieces have significant three dimensional elements, you may be better off photographing them.)

Missy ZNE is not an expert in the differences between one scanner vs. another, but she does have the following suggestions:

Check your scanner settings.  Dig out that manual it came with, or if you can't find it - get online.  Many scanners are set to scan at a low resolution in order to get a quick image that won't take up a lot of space.  In scanning your images for anything other than online viewing, you will want your scanner set to capture the image at a high resolution. 

Once you have captured your image, the next thing you will want to ensure is that you have a good image manager software program, and that you know how to use it.  Many scanners include software for an image manager program, with purchase.  Adobe Photoshop is an example of an image manager that provides extensive options for working with or manipulating your images.  At the very least, you want a program in which you can open your saved images, crop them, and adjust the brightness and color - so that you can manually ensure that the images you end up with are as close to the original as possible.

For more "in-depth" ideas and suggestions, ZNE suggests you take a look at the resources available on this topic - on About.com.

http://graphicssoft.about.com/od/scanning/Scanning_Software_Tips_and_Help.htm

Good luck, and have fun!

 

Where'd they go!?

I can't find the ZNE discussion boards!  Where did they go?

We have new, improved discussion boards - with about a hundred fun functions, bells, and whistles.  Stop by now and REQUEST AN INVITATION!  Woo Hoo!

www.ZNEnet.com

I can't find the ZNE discussion boards!  Where did they go?

We have new, improved discussion boards - with about a hundred fun functions, bells, and whistles.  Stop by now and REQUEST AN INVITATION!  Woo Hoo!

www.ZNEnet.com

I can't find the ZNE discussion boards!  Where did they go?

We have new, improved discussion boards - with about a hundred fun functions, bells, and whistles.  Stop by now and REQUEST AN INVITATION!  Woo Hoo!

www.ZNEnet.com

Fabulous Freebies, Ephemera Hera, and Barter Away!

I have a gazillion (ok, not quite)clear lucite, 1/16" thick rectangles to offer to anyone who might have an interest in them for altered art or? Do we have a posting place on ZNE for supplies free or trade? I also have a pic and can give a better description if you would like.

Thanks, Julia

Oh how exciting!  Thank you for offering to share!  Anytime you have a freebie, discount, giveaway, or special offer for fellow members - send an email to admin@ZNEart.com - and we will post it on The ZNE Scene, www.ZNEScene.com, and we will add it to our member freebie page, which can be found here:

Remember!  You have to use your ZNE Member universal password to access that page.

I have a gazillion (ok, not quite)clear lucite, 1/16" thick rectangles to offer to anyone who might have an interest in them for altered art or? Do we have a posting place on ZNE for supplies free or trade? I also have a pic and can give a better description if you would like.

Thanks, Julia

Oh how exciting!  Thank you for offering to share!  Anytime you have a freebie, discount, giveaway, or special offer for fellow members - send an email to admin@ZNEart.com - and we will post it on The ZNE Scene, www.ZNEScene.com, and we will add it to our member freebie page, which can be found here:

Remember!  You have to use your ZNE Member universal password to access that page.

The answer is transparent!

one of the books i've been using for tips says you can create transparencies from images using an acrylic medium... would you happen to know what works best for this? i've tried two different things but haven't been satisfied with the results...

thanx

jessica

There is no one answer to your question.  It comes down to a matter of preference.  There are many different techniques for creating transparencies to use in your art.  The results can be quite exquisite.  The method you choose will depend on many things - including the base on which you are applying the transparency, the end result you are looking for (textured? smooth? etc.), and of course the supplies you have on hand, as well!

If you are trying to narrow down your options in order to find the method that works best for you - Missy ZNE has two suggestions:

Check out ZNE Member Claudine Hellmuth's fabulous book - Collage Discovery Workshop.  The ZNE Book Club read this book as their June selection, and the book includes a number of wonderful transfer techniques.

Next, ask your question on the ZNE Talk discussion boards.  Our members are very generous with their skills and expertise, and this is the best place to get a broad range of opinions on any art technique.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ZNEtalk/

Good luck, and have fun!

one of the books i've been using for tips says you can create transparencies from images using an acrylic medium... would you happen to know what works best for this? i've tried two different things but haven't been satisfied with the results...

thanx

jessica

There is no one answer to your question.  It comes down to a matter of preference.  There are many different techniques for creating transparencies to use in your art.  The results can be quite exquisite.  The method you choose will depend on many things - including the base on which you are applying the transparency, the end result you are looking for (textured? smooth? etc.), and of course the supplies you have on hand, as well!

If you are trying to narrow down your options in order to find the method that works best for you - Missy ZNE has two suggestions:

Check out ZNE Member Claudine Hellmuth's fabulous book - Collage Discovery Workshop.  The ZNE Book Club read this book as their June selection, and the book includes a number of wonderful transfer techniques.

Next, ask your question on the ZNE Talk discussion boards.  Our members are very generous with their skills and expertise, and this is the best place to get a broad range of opinions on any art technique.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ZNEtalk/

Good luck, and have fun!